Finding the perfect wave.For 99% of the surfers out there, it never happens. But for longboarders Robert August and Mike Hynson, they indeed found the perfect wave. It wasn't huge, it wasn't macho, but it was zen-shaped like it came from some heavenly machine and they later said they got hungry for lunch riding the tip of the curl so long. For those who know what surfing truly is, it doesn't get better than this. Bruce Brown filmed and did commentary for this now legendary film.
12 comments:
Ha ha.. can't get away from mad surfers and cricketers. A great little film. I just sent the link to my good mate Tricky who owns the coolest little surf shop in the area. I've spent many an evening watching some incredible footage shot by the professionals. I'm too old and scared to learn, but maybe next time around....?
I remember seeing this in the theater in Hermosa Beach! Cool movie still. I like surf movies - those people are nuts, but it's great watching Warren Miller's Extreme Surfing and Riding Giants (2004). I saw the latter one about 6 months ago. I surfed little waves when I was a teen, living close to Southern California beaches it's almost a given. I even had a polka dot bikini! Ha, just remembered. It's fun, but mostly body-surfed ..when that goes right, it's awesome, but when it doesn't -ouch and sand every place imaginable - want to try surfing again in Hanalei (Kauai) - it's the perfect place for beginners (then Magdalene, it's not scary at all). I can imagine it's easier on the bod than kayaking now - that really gets to my lower back! BUT, if we can get one with nice seats and one where you ride on top instead of inside, that should help. Take photos from a duck's eye view! Summer should be fun and out in the sun. It would help my depression I'm sure. I have to promise myself to do "Something" while it's still hot enough. I'm getting too old too, but maybe it's all in my head (ok, and body but it's only because I'm lazy!) I'm still a teenager at heart - just need to concentrate on that.
You sound so much like me Empath, but I bet I'm lazier. I have sporadic guilt ridden bouts of exercise. I was the kid in school who used to sneak off the back of the hockey pitch in order to graffiti the bathroom walls with poetry. I'll swim in the sea occasionally and love a good long walk miles from humans, but mostly I just surf books, the internet and a few pubs. It doesn't help that my best mate is an incredibly fit, good looking surf dude who attracts fawning females everywhere he goes. It's not fair! Don't wanna get old! Stamps feet petulantly like the five year old she is inside.
Looks like fun til you eat sand and limpits at the end. Believe I'll stick to cricket. (P.S. Mags. Miles from humans? Just take your simian boyfriend. Pass the bananas!)
no limpets Rex but there were plenty of sand crabs! When the waves receded, little holes appeared in the sand. If you could dig fast enough, you could catch a little sand crab (about an inch in diameter) and then say Eww! and throw it in the water. I don't eat crickets, so I'll join Mag on the chimp walk (smiling at nature and suffering from leg cramps - and Yes, we want no bananas).
Now you loons have me thinking of the Woody Allen movie Bananas. Haven't seen that one in ages.
Thanks for the surf nostalgia (no relation to ganglia), and yet another "pitch" (notice my dazzling wordplay) for the sport of cricket.
I'd play cricket except I don't like all that noise in the middle of the night, playing in a pond or bog is depressing, and rubbing your forearms together constantly to make that sound seems like it would leads to some serious chaffing.
Well I suppose I have to put up with the cricket game/cricket insect stuff. To be expected as 'tis a silly word. Endless source of amusement to folks Stateside. This I found face to face as I've been all the way to Cali to play. The guys we played, mainly kids from Compton and homeless guys from all over the States, returned the favour by coming to England, then got stranded here cos '9/11' happened mid-visit. It's a weird world, ain't it?
Are you saying all the thugs from Compton and Long Beach got stuck on a cricket holiday in England, can't return because of our notorious international flight customs restrictions, and now I can saunter about East LA and play tennis and not have to know how to throw the gang sign for that particular block, all without fear of being jumped? That's great!
1st you're off the subject of surfing,2nd 9/11 isn't even here yet and the old 9/11 was a long time ago and 3rd there are a lot more of those dudes down there that don't play cricket - they play with fire in the form of guns. A tennis racket would just piss them off. I grew up 20 miles from there (things have changed and not for the better) - if you take your racket put it in a case that looks like it holds an UZI or better yet, just head for the surf!
I wonder if The Surfaris are still playing instrumentals like Wipe Out!! In Compton that means something entirely different.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGyrOe5Kxn4
*Cringes as he waits for Rex's diatribe on there being no racquets in cricket but rather bats, like in baseball.*
You're probably right about LA though Empath... not all the scoundrels could have left for England. Who would run the donut shops for the cops that don't dare patrol the area? Or sell window bars? I guess maybe they don't need them anymore!
I always loved "Wipe Out" although I didn't realize the original didn't actually have a guy saying "wipe out" at the peak of the chorus. Cool video, thanks! I'm getting closer and closer to watching The Endless Summer again...
I sense the twang of disbelief. Everything I wrote is true. The B.B.C. came with us to L.A. to make a documentary so there is evidence. I should blog the story so discussion can take place on my comments pages rather than poor, beleaguered Meta's. Look out for it.
Oh, and Surf's Up! (anyone fancy a gritty crab kebab?)
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